UPVC Door Lock Identification Guide (No Form)
Handles & Hinges UPVC Maintenance Ltd is a UK specialist in replacement parts for UPVC doors and windows. Use this quick guide to record the key details of your multipoint lock so we (or any supplier) can identify the correct gearbox or full lock fast.
What to record (in order)
-
Brand / stamp on the faceplate
Look for names or codes (e.g., ERA, GU, Yale, Mila, Winkhaus, Roto). Photograph the stamp near the latch or deadbolt. -
Backset
Distance from the faceplate edge to the centre of the spindle square (usually 35 mm or 45 mm on UPVC). -
PZ (centres)
Spindle centre to keyhole/cylinder centre (common: 92 mm; some older sets 70 mm or 68 mm). -
Case depth & faceplate width
Case depth is overall body depth (not just backset). Faceplate width is typically 16–20 mm on UPVC. -
Screw centres (handle)
Centre-to-centre between the two main handle fixing screws (e.g., 122 mm, 148 mm, 211/215 mm). -
Locking points & layout
Count and name what you see along the strip: hooks, rollers, mushrooms, bolts, deadbolt. Note distances between the central case and the nearest hook/roller. -
Operation
Lift-lever or double-spindle (key-wind), day latch position, split spindle, etc. Note if the outside handle is fixed (lever/pad). -
Handing
Viewed from outside: hinges on left = left-hand; right = right-hand. (Many locks are reversible; still note it.) -
Door details
Door type (UPVC/composite), thickness, approx. age of installation, and any previous repairs.
Copy-and-fill checklist (for email or notes)
Field | Your notes |
---|---|
Brand / stamp | |
Backset (mm) | |
PZ / Centres (mm) | |
Faceplate width (mm) | |
Case depth (mm) | |
Handle screw centres (mm) | |
Locking points (type & count) | |
Layout distances (centre case → nearest hook/roller) | |
Operation (lift-lever / key-wind / split spindle / lever-pad) | |
Handing (L/R, viewed from outside) | |
Door type & thickness | |
Photos taken (faceplate stamp, latch area, overall strip) |
FAQ
Do I need a full lock or just a gearbox? If the strip and points look fine and only the mechanism jams or freewheels, a gearbox usually fixes it (and is far cheaper).
What if the brand stamp is missing? Measure backset, PZ, screw centres and note the locking point layout — those sizes are often enough to identify the correct part.
How should I photograph it? Take three photos: close-up of any branding, the central case (showing latch/deadbolt), and a wide shot showing the nearest hook/roller and its distance from centre.